Rock-cut candi shrines carved into the cliff face at Gunung Kawi temple, Tampaksiring, Bali
Temples

Updated October 2026

Gunung Kawi, the royal shrines in the cliff

Ten facades seven metres high, cut straight out of a river gorge nine hundred years ago, at the bottom of a staircase you will remember on the way back up.

Gunung Kawi temple is a set of shrines carved into the cliffs of the Pakerisan valley at Tampaksiring, five minutes from Tirta Empul and about 40 minutes north of Ubud. You pay at the top, walk down roughly 300 steps through rice terraces, cross the river, and the stone walls rise on both sides of you.

Of the old sites around Ubud it is the one that makes people stop talking, and it gets a fraction of Tirta Empul's crowd. It is also not the same place as Gunung Kawi Sebatu, a water temple fifteen minutes away that Google often shows first for the same search.

The carved shrine facades of Gunung Kawi in the Pakerisan valley, Tampaksiring, Bali
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The two Tampaksiring temples on one morning

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Tirta Empul and Gunung Kawi half day from Ubud

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What is Gunung Kawi Temple?

Gunung Kawi is a group of ten candi, shrine facades shaped like temples, cut in relief into the rock of the valley. They are not built: each one was carved out of the cliff, along with the niche around it, which is roughly seven metres high. Four stand on the west bank of the river, five on the east bank, and a tenth sits alone further south.

They date from the eleventh century and are linked to King Anak Wungsu, of the Warmadewa dynasty that ruled Bali from this valley, who died around 1077. The usual reading is that the five eastern shrines honour the king and his close family, and the four on the west his queens or concubines. An inscription in Kawi script above one of the eastern doorways, read as Haji Lumahing Jalu, is the main evidence for the attribution.

The site belongs to the UNESCO-listed Pakerisan watershed, part of the Cultural Landscape of Bali Province inscribed in 2012, together with Tirta Empul a little upstream. Local legend skips the dynasty and credits the giant Kebo Iwa, who is said to have carved the whole valley with his fingernails in a single night.

Row of five rock-cut candi shrines on the east bank of the Pakerisan river at Gunung Kawi, Tampaksiring, Bali

Photo Chainwit., CC BY 4.0

The eastern group: five facades in a row, carved from the cliff rather than built against it.

Is Gunung Kawi a tomb?

Every sign calls it the royal tombs, and it is not one in the literal sense. No human remains have been found in or behind the shrines, and the facades have no chamber behind them. They are best understood as memorials, places where the dead king and his family were honoured as deified ancestors, which is how the Balinese still treat them.

What does Gunung Kawi mean?

Gunung is mountain in Indonesian. Kawi is the old literary language of Java and Bali, and the script used on the inscription here. The word itself comes from the Sanskrit for poet, which is why the name is often given as the mountain of the poets. Locals mostly call the site Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi, the cliff shrines of Gunung Kawi.

Gunung Kawi entrance fee and opening hours in 2026

The ticket booth is at the top of the lane, before the stairs. Prices below were checked on 19 October 2026 and converted at that day's rate (Rp 18,053 to US$1, Rp 12,775 to C$1). Bring cash in rupiah: the booth, the parking and the stalls do not take cards.

What you pay forDetailOrder of magnitude
Entrance, foreign adultThe figure published by Indonesia's tourism ministry, paid in cash at the booth at the top of the lane. Some guides quote 75,000, so take a little more than you need.Rp 50,000 (US$3 · C$4)
Entrance, Indonesian visitorThe domestic rate on the same official listing. Residents may be asked for ID.Rp 30,000 (US$1.70 · C$2.30)
Sarong and sashLent at the gate if your legs are showing, and usually counted in the ticket. Where a separate rental is asked for, it is a few thousand rupiah.included
ParkingPaid to the attendant on the lane, by vehicle.Rp 2,000 scooter · Rp 5,000 car
Bali tourist levyPaid once for the whole trip, not at each temple. Spot checks happen at the big sites.Rp 150,000 (US$8 · C$12)

Is the Gunung Kawi fee 50,000 or 75,000 rupiah?

Both figures circulate. Indonesia's tourism ministry lists Rp 50,000 for foreign visitors and Rp 30,000 for Indonesians, and two recent visitor reports paid the same. One of the most read Bali blogs gives Rp 75,000 for adults and Rp 50,000 for children aged five to eleven. Rates here are set by the village and change without notice, so the safe plan is to carry Rp 100,000 per person and pay what the board at the booth says.

Gunung Kawi opening hours

The site is open every day from 8 am to 6 pm. The last useful entry is around 5 pm, because you need half an hour to get down, look and climb back before the light goes in the gorge.

The Gunung Kawi steps: how many, and how hard

The famous figure is 300 steps, and it is roughly right. The ministry's own page says 300 to 400, and one local guide counts 371. The difference is where you start counting: the souvenir lane slopes gently before the real staircase begins.

Going down is easy and takes about seven minutes. Coming back up is the part people underestimate. It is a steady climb in a valley with little wind, and most visitors stop two or three times. Allow ten to fifteen minutes, more at midday.

  • There is no lift, no ramp and no other exit. If stairs hurt your knees, Tirta Empul and Sebatu are both flat.
  • Children manage it from about five. Leave the pushchair in the car and bring a carrier for a baby.
  • The stone is worn smooth and turns slippery after rain. Wear shoes with grip and hold the handrail going down.
  • Buy water on the lane, because there is nothing to buy at the bottom.
Stone staircase and arched bridge leading to the rock-cut caves at Gunung Kawi, Tampaksiring, Bali

Photo Eric Bajart, CC BY-SA 3.0

The last stretch of steps near the bottom of the valley, by the river. Every one of them is also the way back up.

Gunung Kawi dress code: sarong and temple rules

Gunung Kawi is an active temple, and the dress code is the standard one for Bali. Legs are covered with a sarong, lent at the entrance along with the sash tied at the waist, so there is no need to bring your own. Cover your shoulders too: a T-shirt is fine, a vest top is not.

The rules are the ones that apply at every temple on the island. Do not climb on the shrines or step over offerings, keep your voice down where people are praying, and women who are menstruating are asked not to enter, as at all Balinese temples. Nobody checks, but it is a request you are expected to respect.

At the stone gateway near the bottom, two jars of holy water stand on either side of the path, and an attendant may offer to sprinkle you. It is optional. A small donation is welcome if you accept.

What to see at Gunung Kawi, in the order you meet it

The lane and the rice terraces

From the car park, a lane of souvenir stalls and warungs leads to the booth and then to the staircase. The stairs drop through terraced rice fields that are worked, not kept for photos, so expect farmers and irrigation channels rather than swings.

This is the only place to eat. A handful of warungs just past the entrance serve nasi goreng, coffee and cold drinks, and the ones on the valley side look out over the terraces. Buy your water here before you go down.

The rock-cut gateway

Near the bottom, the path passes through an arch cut through the rock, the moment you enter the sacred part of the valley. Just past it you reach the river and the first view of the shrines.

The five shrines on the east bank

Cross the bridge over the Pakerisan and turn to the main group: five facades in a row inside a temple courtyard where offerings are laid every day. This is the group linked to Anak Wungsu himself, and the one with the inscription. Next to it, small chambers and a courtyard cut into the rock are usually described as hermits' cells, where priests or monks once lived.

Four rock-cut candi shrines on the west side of Gunung Kawi, Tampaksiring, Bali

Photo Chainwit., CC BY 4.0

The western group: four facades, set a little apart from the five on the other bank.

The four shrines on the west bank

Back across the river, the four western facades face the first group across the water. They get the morning light and are the best photograph on the site before 10 am. Most visitors see both groups and turn back here.

The tenth shrine in the rice fields

The one almost everybody misses is the tenth candi, alone about a kilometre to the south, reached by a path along the irrigation channels. It is often said to honour a minister of the king. The walk takes 15 to 20 minutes each way and is the best part of the site if you want it to yourself. Ask at the bottom for the path, which is not signposted.

Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empul: five minutes apart

The two temples sit in the same village on the same river, 1.6 to 2 km apart, and nearly every driver combines them. At Tirta Empul you get into the water with the Balinese. At Gunung Kawi you stand in a gorge and look up, usually with very few people around. Read how the purification ritual at Tirta Empul works before you go, so you know which spouts to skip.

Do Gunung Kawi first. The stairs are easier before 10 am, and arriving at the pools hot and tired makes the cold water feel earned rather than a chore.

How to get to Gunung Kawi from Ubud

Tampaksiring is about 20 km north east of Ubud, 30 to 40 minutes by car. A driver for the morning is the usual choice and the easiest: they wait at the car park and take you on to the next stop. By scooter the road is straightforward, through Tegallalang or Pejeng. Grab and Gojek will drop you, but getting a ride back from Tampaksiring is hit and miss, so agree a return pickup before you let the car go.

A half day loop: Tegallalang, Sebatu, Gunung Kawi, Tirta Empul

All four sit within a few kilometres of each other north of Ubud, and this order keeps the walking for the cool hours and the water for the hot ones. Start at Tegallalang rice terrace before the crowds and you are back in Ubud for a late lunch.

What you pay forDetailOrder of magnitude
08:00 · TegallalangThe terraces before the coaches. An hour is enough to walk down into the bowl and back.start
09:15 · Gunung Kawi SebatuThe water temple, mostly flat, thirty to sixty minutes. About 4 km from Tegallalang.≈ 10 min drive
10:30 · Gunung KawiThe cliff shrines and the stairs, before the valley loses its shade. An hour on site.≈ 15 min drive
12:00 · Tirta EmpulThe purification pools last, when you are hot enough to want the water. Same village.≈ 5 min drive

Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a different temple

Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu shares half its name and nothing else. It is a water temple in the village of Sebatu, about 4 km from both Tegallalang and Tirta Empul, built around a spring that feeds koi ponds and a set of purification pools. There are no carved cliffs and almost no stairs.

It costs about Rp 50,000 for an adult and Rp 25,000 for a child (US$3 · C$4 and US$1.40 · C$2), sarong included, with the same 8 am to 6 pm hours. Thirty minutes to an hour is enough. It is greener and calmer than Tirta Empul, and many people prefer it for that.

It is not a swimming spot. The large pond with the statue of Saraswati on a swan is for the koi. The smaller spring-fed pools are for the melukat purification ritual, which you can join in a bathing sarong with a change of clothes, and which is quieter here than at Tirta Empul.

Clear water pool with island shrine and thatched pavilions at Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu, Bali

Photo Chainwit., CC BY 4.0

Gunung Kawi Sebatu: a spring, ponds and shrines on flat ground, nothing carved in a cliff.

Choose Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring if

You want the history and the scale: eleventh century shrines in a gorge, and you are fine with 300 steps back up.

Choose Gunung Kawi Sebatu if

You want a calm water temple with no stairs, or a quieter place than Tirta Empul for a purification ritual.

The ponds of the water temple at Gunung Kawi Sebatu, Bali
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The water temple on a day north of Ubud

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Gunung Kawi Sebatu, waterfall and rice terrace tour

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  • ✓Free cancellation on most dates
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Best time to visit Gunung Kawi

Arrive at 8 am. The valley is still in shade, the western shrines catch the light, and the climb back up is far easier before the heat. Tour groups that start with Tirta Empul usually reach Gunung Kawi around 11 am. The late afternoon, after 4 pm, is the other quiet window.

In the rainy season, from November to March, the rice is at its greenest and the river is loud. Go in the morning, since rain tends to arrive after lunch, and take the steps slowly. The temple also holds its anniversary ceremony once a year on the Balinese calendar. The courtyard fills with worshippers in white, which is worth seeing, though not if you came for empty photos.

Is Gunung Kawi worth visiting?

Yes, if you are already going to Tirta Empul. Five minutes away, it adds an hour and gives you the oldest monument of the trip, in a setting that has barely changed. It is less crowded than every other big name near Ubud, and the scale of the carved cliffs surprises most people.

It is a harder sell as a trip of its own from the south coast: two to three hours in the car for an hour on site. And if stairs are a real problem, skip it and see Sebatu instead.

How long to spend at Gunung Kawi

One hour covers the descent, both groups of shrines and the climb. Add half an hour for the tenth shrine in the rice fields. To see how it compares with Goa Gajah and the other temples around Ubud, start from the guide to Bali's temples.

Gunung Kawi: common questions

How many steps are there at Gunung Kawi?
Roughly 300 each way. Indonesia's tourism ministry gives 300 to 400 depending on the page, and one local guide counts 371. The difference comes from where you start counting on the souvenir lane. Going down takes about seven minutes, coming back up takes ten to fifteen with stops, and there is no other way out.
How much is the Gunung Kawi entrance fee in 2026?
Rp 50,000 for a foreign adult, about US$3 or C$4, according to the tourism ministry's listing checked in October 2026. Indonesian visitors pay Rp 30,000. Some blogs quote Rp 75,000 for adults and Rp 50,000 for children, so carry enough cash to cover the higher figure. Parking is Rp 2,000 for a scooter and Rp 5,000 for a car.
What should I wear to Gunung Kawi?
Covered shoulders and a sarong over the legs. The sarong is lent at the gate, so you do not need to bring one. Shoes matter more than clothes here: the stone steps are worn smooth and get slippery after rain, so wear sandals or trainers with grip rather than flip flops.
Is Gunung Kawi a tomb?
It is usually called the royal tombs, but no human remains have ever been found in or behind the shrines. They are carved facades, not burial chambers, and are read as memorials to King Anak Wungsu and members of his family from the eleventh century.
What is the difference between Gunung Kawi and Gunung Kawi Sebatu?
They are two separate temples about 15 minutes apart. Gunung Kawi at Tampaksiring is the eleventh century complex of shrines cut into a cliff, reached down around 300 steps. Gunung Kawi Sebatu is a water temple built around a spring, with koi ponds and purification pools, on mostly flat ground. Both cost about Rp 50,000 for a foreign adult.
How far is Gunung Kawi from Tirta Empul?
About 1.6 to 2 km, a five minute drive. Both are in the village of Tampaksiring, on the same Pakerisan river, and nearly every driver combines them. Ubud is about 20 km south, 30 to 40 minutes by car.
How long do you need at Gunung Kawi?
Plan for an hour. Forty five minutes covers the walk down, the two groups of shrines and the climb back. Ninety minutes lets you add the tenth shrine in the rice fields to the south and sit by the river for a while.
Can you visit Gunung Kawi in the rainy season?
Yes, and the valley is at its greenest. Go in the morning, because rain usually arrives in the afternoon, and take the steps slowly on the way down, which is when people slip. The river runs higher and louder but the paths stay above it.
Can you swim at Gunung Kawi Sebatu?
No. The large pond with the statue of Saraswati is a koi pond and nobody bathes in it. The smaller spring-fed pools are for the melukat purification ritual, which you can join in a bathing sarong, but they are not a swimming spot.
Is Gunung Kawi open every day?
Yes, from 8 am to 6 pm, including Tuesdays. If someone on the road tells you the temple is closed today and offers to take you somewhere else, keep walking to the ticket booth. Parts of the site can be busy with worshippers during the temple's anniversary ceremony, which follows the Balinese calendar.